Mikko in Mombasa

January 17, 2005

Does the matatu die?

There is a "Metro" in Mombasa. It's a red bus. Not just one, but many. The Metro is a new arrival on the scene amongst the competitors in the public transport sector. In just a few weeks the locals have accepted it as their own. During rush hour, people fight their way into the metro. The more cunning individuals foresee the situation, and walk up route to catch it at an earlier stop. Some even catch it in the wrong direction, being aware that it will come back the other way once it reaches its final stop nearby.

But what is the matatu? It's a form of super efficient public transport founded on the Toyota Hiace. Matatu is the plural for tatu. Tatu in english means three. In addition to the front seat, there are 4 rows which seat 3 each. Since the car is only a Hiace, the corridor to the back rows is pretty narrow. It's a tight squeeze, but you can get by if you make a gesture. On top of the driver and the ticket charger, it legally seats 13. The ticket charger operates the sliding door, spends his time shouting out to potential passengers on the side of the road and collects the fee from the passengers. It will pick you up virtually anywhere along the road as long as the police don't mind. People usually get of at places where it's acceptable to stop. In the Mombasa area, rides cost between 10 and 20 shillings (20c) depending on the length of the journey.

"Docksssss.. kssssssss... kssssss" is the shout to inform people that this is the matatu going to the harbour. Or "Kwahola Magongo mwisho.. Kwahola Magongo.. Kwahola" implying this car is going to Magongo via Kwahalo. The signs on the front windows stating the route are often unclear, so the ticket seller is without a doubt doing an important job. Music often blasts inside, local and international, reggae or something else, sometimes even gospel. Sometimes its really loud. When a passenger wants out, they have to knock on the roof or the sides . The Hiace curves to a halt, door slides opens and the passenger exits with style.. and then the driver simply butts his way back into the traffic.

The metro on the other hand is quiet, there's no music. But the roof is high, so you don't have crouch your way in to make sure you don't bump your head on the roof. The roof is actually so high, that you can fit to walk inside. I probably can't even reach it by jumping.

The matatu moves about irregularly, the metro moves along at a steady pace. I've taken the metro a couple of times, but I still love the matatu. I'll catch which ever comes first.. Oh yeah, and of course, there has to be space for one more.

I'm taking off now to look for a car, from which I can hear "twapa! Mtwapa... 'twapa, 'twapa… Mtwapa..."

Read the introduction: Why is Mikko in Mombasa?